Adding Finesse to Your Interior Walls
Wainscoting can be installed in your bathroom to enhance the value of your property and was traditionally installed on walls to protect the part of the wall that was likely to get abused or dirty more quickly. In modern bathing spaces, the vertical tongue-and groove wainscoting boards combine well with either wallpaper or paint if you want your lavatory partitions to have a more traditional rustic feel to them.
In the past you could get wainscoting as solid vertical wood strips in the form of Douglas fir or similar solid wood bands. They were about five-eighths of an inch thick, tongue and groove strips that you would apply individually to your bath walls.
Not only did this take time, but because each piece was applied to your wall separately, over an extended period, shrinkage of the wood joints sometimes occurred, warping your wainscoting panels.
Modern Manufactures Make Installing Trim Work Easy
Today you can purchase MDF (medium density fibre) beadboard wainscoting sheets about four feet and up to sixteen feet long and because there are fewer joints, the chances of the wainscoting in your bathroom shrinking is severely reduced.
Installing washroom wainscoting, capping off the edge, applying a baseboard, mitering the outside edge and inscribing an inside corner are all remodelling tasks that can be easily accomplished by the average do-it-yourself bath renovator with a few carpentry tools.
This can not only help you create a fresh country style theme in your lavatory it can also create a sense of nostalgia and elegance.
Proper Height for Handsomely Paneled Wainscot
First of all you must decide how high you want your wainscoting to be, approximately thirty-six or forty-eight inches above the baseboard, and measure your lavatory walls to determine how many panels of beadbord wainscoting you will need to go around the designated area.
If your bath renovation project includes a cap rail, snap a level chalk line approximately half an inch below the height of the cap rail. This can be done by measuring up from the highest point on the floor.
Strategies to Keep Your Paneling Damage Free
When cutting wainscoting with an electric saw, if you purchased a prefinished sheet of wainscoting, turn the sheet over so you do not scratch the prefinished surface with the bottom of the saw and this also helps to reduce any shearing of the wood.
Another important thing to remember is when you are cutting the panels to fit a corner, try not to cut a panel in the middle of a groove as this is difficult to create the exact spacing as the other grooves.
If you already have a baseboard in place in your bath, plan to butt the bottom of the vertical face of the trim against the top of the baseboard. If however you are renovating from scratch and you have no baseboard in place, you have the option to install the wainscoting all the way down to the bath floor and instead cover the bottom with new baseboard.
Securing the Lining
Secure your cut wainscoting panels to your wall studs, through your drywall, with nails at the top and bottom of the wainscoting sheet. This way when you apply the cap and baseboard, the nails will be covered.
Try not to place nails in the middle area because you do not want to mar the surface. If your panel is high or you want added security, you can apply construction adhesive to the back of your panel sheets for added bonding power and support in the middle area.
When you get to an inside corner, scribe the board and cut it at a slight angle, back from the face, line the edge with a bead of caulk and slide it into place so that it fits plumb with the corner and nail it to your bathroom wall.
Constructing Outside Corner Joints
To create an outside corner joint, cut your panel edges at a forty-five degree angle, caulk the edges and nail from the top to the bottom of the panel to secure it in place. It’s ok to nail from the top to the bottom here because it will be filled and painted later.
When constructing the base board for your wainscoting, create a butt-joint in the inside corner and a forty-five degree miter joint at the outside corner, glue and nail into place. Next you have to glue on the baseboard molding.
Making Your Architectural Feature Fit Nicely
When installing the crown molding on top of the baseboard for your bathroom wainscoting project, first place a butt joint in the inside corner, however to make the adjoining piece fit nicely, you have to create a coped corner by first making a forty-five degree miter cut across the face.
Then use a handheld coping saw to remove the extra wood behind the edge of the molding so the edges fit snugly. For the outside corner of your bath molding create another miter joint.
To finish your wainscoting, you can use a rounded over cap board for the cap rail over the top edge of your vertical panels. At the inside corner cut in slightly to get rid of the round portion of the edge so when the two pieces butt together, a nice snug corner is created and on the outside corner create another miter joint.
To really give your bathroom wainscoting some style cut some molding to fit under the cap, again use a coping saw for the inside joint and a miter joint for the outer corner. Fill and sand down any crevices and paint to hide any imperfections.
A Simple Overlay or Combine it With Molding
Modern wainscot beaded paneling gives your lavatory the look of cottage style decor and if you want to get even more creative, wainscoting can be used as a bathtub surround. Just like washroom cladding, when you combine wainscoting with simple molding you can enhance your baths décor and appeal even further.
This is a week-end remodeling project that will transform your bathing facility from ordinary to extraordinary with some simple woodworking tools.